CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA
THE LIVING LEGEND OF THE CARIBBEAN
Babbie De Derian, travel, food & spa editor
Travel Beyond Expectations Home
Avianca Airlines |
Cartagena, the 2nd oldest
city in Colombia, is one of the most
beautiful and most visited cities in Latin America. It is paradise for those
who live here, and paradise for those who are just passing through. September
through May is the cruise season; two hundred cruise ships are expected to dock
in 2008, and starting in August, Royal Caribbean
will use Cartagena as a home port. The distinct charm of this unique city earned
it recognition as a UNESCO Cultural World
Heritage and Patrimony of Humankind in 1985; its seven universities
reflect the fact “here learning is a way of life”.
Cartagena, founded by the Spanish and the richest settlement they had in
colonial times, is an amazing city . . . vibrant, colorful, full of life, and
proud of its history. Its people are physically beautiful, happy, generous of
heart and compassionate; people come here to be with the Cartagenians.
It is the only walled city in the
Americas, built during the 16th and 18th centuries to protect against pirates
from England and France. It took more than 200 years and 15 million African
slaves to build the wall; Cartagena was a big slave market. It is said “the
walls were built with the blood of black people”. Today, the walls surround an
enchanting old town; its narrow streets are lined with chic clothing and jewelry
shops ( emeralds are a big attraction),
charming boutique hotels and hidden courtyard restaurants.
El Santisimo is a most unique restaurant; its menu refers to “the sins of yesterday . . . and of your future visits”. Owner/chef Frederico Vega |
El Santisimo is a most unique restaurant;
its menu refers to “the sins of yesterday . . . and of your future visits”.
Owner/chef Frederico Vega, who comes from
a religious family in the religious town of Calli, has created a menu that plays
on one’s tongue-in-cheek religious inclinations. Frederico greets us with charm
and enthusiasm, leads us to a table in the atrium garden, and extends the
pleasure of dining with us. We are amused and deliciously satisfied by the
originality of the dishes on his “ Monk Special
Menu”, and on “ The Sins of the Nun”
desert menu. We begin with salmon ceviche, followed by sauté shrimp on mango
and tamarind served with a mango mousse and El Mar de Juan, sea bass marinara.
Cartagena is a city of squares:
Fernandez de Madrid, San Diego, La Merced, Santo
Domingo, Santa Teresa, San Pedro, de la Aduana, de los Coches, de Bolivar
are the most important. Outdoor cafes built around the squares offer the
tranquility and charm of being surrounded by cathedrals, churches and two
hundred years of architecture. Buildings built in the 17th to early 18th
century, late Colonial and 18th century Republican in style, blend handsomely to
create the vein of this rich proud city.
Cartagena women and men often dress in
all white, always looking crisp, elegant and cool, even in the humid weather
that can melt one’s composure just a little.
Cartagena is divided into three zones;
Bocagrande is the richest and most modern
residential and commercial area. Elegant glass condo towers that rise along the
shoreline reflect a lifestyle of luxury, and the good life. 500 new condos are
in the planning or construction stages; buying a condo facing the sea appears to
be a good investment as many are being bought by retired Americans.
The Caribe Emerald Factory and Joyeria in B oca Grande |
The Caribe Emerald Factory and
Joyeria in
Boca
Grande is fascinating, and a reliable place to buy
emeralds. You can watch stones being cut
polished and set into rings, earrings and necklaces; choose your own and
Alfredo the owner will help you create an
original design.
The Caribe La Fontana Hotel is the oldest
hotel in Cartagena; it has been
modernized with two new towers. I swim in the Olympic sized pool, enjoy
sumptuous breakfast buffets poolside in the mornings and hot off the grill spicy
steaks at night, serenaded by a group of strumming and singing musicians.
Friday
Isla del Pirata, |
There are twenty seven Rosario Islands
off the coast of Cartagena. Our day
begins with a drive to the Bodeguita dock
where we board a launch for the forty five minute trip to
Isla del Pirata, one of the smaller
private islands. Once out of the harbor, the boat zips through open waters,
chopping through the waves. It is exhilarating; the breeze and the open horizon
fill my lungs and vision with fresh air; a cruise ship comes into view. On the
island, we are given a thatched roof room (steps from the sea) to shower, nap
and just relax; the emerald green clear water welcomes my descent, happy to have
me in its embrace. Lunch is a whole freshly caught fish served with coconut
rice and a crisp lush salad.
Saturday
The sea in front of The Caribe |
The sea in front of The Caribe is not as
clear as the waters off the coast of the Rosario
Islands; the sand is brown, but the water is clean, the waves gentle. I
sit under a blue canopy watching a senora in a bright yellow blouse carve a
bright yellow mango, a juicy pineapple and a ripe watermelon. Persistent beach
vendors try to sell me sunglasses, a watch, handmade bead jewelry, sandals, a
hat and a variety of local sweets. A woman insists on giving me a pedicure and a
massage; a man playing an accordion strolls the beach; a senora sits on the sand
reading a sunbather’s cards and palm.; everyone is trying to earn a simple
living in their own way. Dodging the soliciting vendors is more of a challenge
than riding the waves.
We visit the most beautiful mansion in Cartagena, Casa Roman, homento the Roman family who invented the Coca cola formula. Senora Teresita Roman de Zurek |
We visit the most beautiful mansion in Cartagena,
Casa Roman, home
to the Roman family who invented the Coca cola
formula. Senora Teresita Roman de Zurek,
now in her 80’s, has the largest private doll collection in the world, carefully
preserved and displayed in glass cabinets. We sip cranberry juice in her tiled
courtyard; Lawrence buys a copy of the
cookbook she wrote, which she is happy to personalize and autograph.
Café de Mar |
We walk the wall that surrounds the city; watch the sunset at
Café de Mar on top of the wall; take a
horse and carriage ride around the city, then dine on chicken and cheese arepas
at Parque de Fernandez.
Lunch the next day with the locals at Loncheria
Bolivar is an authentic mix of grilled pork and filet of fish. In the
afternoon we visit the Gold Museum with
the largest collection of Pre-Colombia gold artifacts, then browse the old
Bovedas dungeons which have been turned
into a souvenir shopping arcade with many vendors.
Cartagena‘s cultural calendar is
impressive. The Chapel of the Mercy Convent
is now a beautiful concert hall. Highlights of the season include:
The Classic Music Festival the beginning
of the year and The Film Festival at the
end of March.
Tomorrow, it’s on to Bogotá and a hectic
schedule of new adventures.
A Glimpse of What to Do
The Castle of San Felipe de Barajas, the
largest fortress built by the Spanish in
South America. Construction began 1586 and it was later crucial to the
successful defense of the city from an invasion in 1741 by the British.
The walls around the
Old City (Las Murallas).
The undersea wall across Bocagrande built between 1771 and 1778; and the forts of San Jose and San Fernando, built between 1751 and 1759 at Bocachica.
The Palace of the Inquisition,
Cartagena was the third and final site of
the New World Spanish Inquisition. In this place hundreds of witches and other
heretics were tortured and executed.
Almost every church in Cartagena is worth visiting, the
Cathedral,
San Pedro Claver and
Santo Domingo are among the most
frequented.
The Convent of Santa Clara and
Santa Teresa, previously convents, today they serve as five star hotels.
Las Bóvedas Quarter (
Old Dungeons). This gathering of 23
vaults and 46
arches that formed the facade of this Military Quarter was used as lodging site
for the troops, military provisions and stores. Currently it is a market, with
handcrafts from all over the country.
The Clock Tower, built at
the beginning of the XVIII Century, this tower rises above the main gate to
enter the walled city. It is the symbol of Cartagena.
Heredia Theater, built in
1911 upon the ruins of the La Merced church (1625) in order to commemorate the
centennial of Cartagena’s independence. Today it is a center for the arts and
cultural events.
La Popa Monastery,
founded by the Agustinos Descalzos Recoletos group in 1607, with the mission of
expelling Buziraco, the image of a goat adored by the Indians. Today La Popa is
a site of devotion and pilgrimage.
The Monument to the Old Shoes
is a beautiful allegory of Cartagena.
Volcán de Totumo, or
nearby Arboletes. These are mud
volcanoes. Totumo is the tallest mud volcano in the world.
Gold Museum, (
Museo de Oro) The incredible contents of
the museum includes valuable pre-Colombian gold artifacts, some of the oldest
ceramics in the Americas, an explanation of the Zenú Nation's amazing hydraulic
engineering achievements and a mountain of information about the way the native
people lived.
Plaza Santo Domingo, Once
a place where slaves were auctioned off, the
plaza is the home to Botero's gordita (the fat lady statue), and the beautiful
Santo Domingo Church.
Catch a ride on a horse-drawn
carriage, Take a tour of the city and get
transported back to colonial times in your own carriage.
Drink, sing and dance the night away on a
Chiva party tour. These tours are popular
with both Colombian and foreign tourists. The tours include live music, drinks
and food.
If you like art, visit the Museo
de Arte Moderno in front of the Cathedral,
Get your PADI diving certificate
and dive in the Caribbean observing tropical fish and reefs, and the odd
shipwreck. Cartagena is one of the cheapest places in the world to get your PADI
certification.
If you like to shop, visit
Lucy’s Jewelry Emerald Store and Flori
for beautiful white clothing, both in the walled city.
Go on an eco-cruise of
the manglares. The mangrove swamps around Cartagena have recently been promoted
as a tourist attraction. You will be taken you on a canoe through mangroves
teeming with all sorts of animals.
Visit Islas del Rosario.
About 30 km southeast of Cartagena are the Islas de
Rosario (Rosario Islands), a nationally protected park which features an
aquarium with trained dolphins and many varieties of tropical fish and sharks.
For more info:
COLOMBIAN GOVERNMENT TRADE BUREAU
601 Brickell Key Drive, Suite 801 Miami, Fl 33131
Tel: (305) 374-3144 - Fax :( 305) 372-9365
AVIANCA AIRLINES flies
non stop from Miami to Cartagena (2.5 hours) and from New York to Cartagena via
Bogota.
For reservations:
www.avianca.com